As Alexis Holmgren stared up at the Northern Lights that danced miles above her outside Yellowknife, she was suddenly overwhelmed by everything she had overcome so far in her young life to get there. “It seems funny to think that colours in the sky can be so meaningful, but it definitely was for me,” she says. “I was just standing there in the cold, in my nice parka and warm clothes, and I could see the beauty of the sky. It was honestly something that, at one point, I wasn’t sure if I’d live to see.”
The trip to the Northwest Territories was a high school graduation gift the 19-year-old from Red Deer, Alberta had given to herself. As her friends jetted off to tropical destinations like Florida or Jamaica, Alexis had been planning, booking and saving for this solo Northern adventure for years. “Everybody else thought I was nuts because who goes north in the winter for a trip, right?”
But Alexis had long been captivated by the North—first on an Alaskan cruise with her family at age seven and later during a Girl Guide national camp retreat to the Yukon at 14.
Both of these trips had taken place in the summer though and she really wanted to witness the wonder of the Northern Lights. Now, as she reached the end of school, it was time to reward herself for all that she’d been through.
Alexis lives with three rare genetic disorders: Congenital Long QT Syndrome (a heart condition that places her at high risk of a sudden cardiac arrest), Solar Urticaria (an anaphylactic allergy to sunlight and UV light), and Hypermobile Ehlers Danlos Syndrome (a connective tissue disorder leading to joint instability and chronic pain).
She has had a total of six heart surgeries. “When I was 17, I met one of the world-leading experts on my heart condition and he had told me I would be dead in five years if I didn’t have two quite complex surgeries done,” she says. So Alexis flew to Minnesota for the operations—one of which, Left Cardiac Sympathetic Denervation, isn’t even offered in Canada—and to have a defibrillator and pacemaker implanted in her chest. Following the denervation surgery, she developed a side effect that leaves her with severe nerve pain in the left side of her body.
But she doesn’t let that get in the way of what she wants to do. Undeterred, she arrived in Yellowknife, looking forward to the snowmobiling and dogsledding tours she’d booked, as well as long nights chasing the epic Aurora.
“My motto has always been that I want to live my life, I don’t just want to survive.”
On the frozen expanse of Great Slave Lake, Alexis held down the throttle of her snowmachine for the first time. She had never driven one before and as the machine chewed up the snow below her and shot her forward, she felt exhilaration and freedom.
Throughout the two-hour tour, she learned how to pilot the machine, carving out her own path on the lake, before navigating the winding trails through the wilderness that took her up steep inclines and then racing down hills.
Alexis took control of another iconic NWT vehicle. “I did the drive-your-own-dogsled. I actually drove pretty much the entire time,” she says. “That was also something that even a few years back I wouldn’t have been able to do with my heart condition.” Alexis did it pretty well, too. “I didn’t tip the sled!” she laughs. “That was my goal—to not tip the sled—and I achieved that, so I was pretty happy.”
Alexis had some busy days in Yellowknife. She visited the museum and the Legislative Assembly to browse art and learn about Northern cultures and history. She swung by the Buffalo Airways hangar and, because she was the only visitor that day, they let her climb up into the flightdeck of the world-famous DC-3. At night, she dined out at Bullock’s Bistro, where she was surprised by the lively and bustling atmosphere.
She also made a stop at Old Town Glassworks. “The place was so cute,” she says. “And as you walk up the ramp, I could just see pallets and pallets of recycled glass bottles of various sizes and shapes—it definitely fits with my values.” Alexis is a dedicated Girl Guide, having volunteered in many leadership roles. “We learn from a very young age that you use your resources wisely. That’s in our law, our Girl Guide law. So I thought it was absolutely fantastic that everything was recycled too. Like, what a great way to put it to use.”
Alexis created two different sand-blasted glass designs in the eclectic studio that featured the Northern Lights—a phenomenon she had yet to see in person.
Yet, every night she would gaze up patiently at the night sky or look for breaks in the cloud on an Aurora hunting tour up and down the Ingraham Trail for a glimpse of those magical lights.
On her final night in Yellowknife, it happened.
She booked a last-minute Northern Lights viewing tour with the Aurora Borealis Experience, and from a frozen lake, framed by pristine boreal forest on the outskirts of Yellowknife, the lights came out.
As the glowing Aurora rippled across the clear black sky, Alexis thought about all she had been through with her rare diseases—”the hospital stays, the surgeries, doing my homework from my literal hospital bed a lot of times,” she says. “It was all of that, but I did it anyway and now I’m here and I made it through all of that and I’m here to see this amazing thing.”
“I shed a tear or two because it was so much leading up to that and it didn’t disappoint in the slightest. Not at all. It was even better than I ever could have imagined.”
Being the home of the best Northern Lights in the world is a pretty big claim, but we’ve got the facts to prove it. Before you come to see for yourself, read these 7 reasons why the NWT has the world’s best Aurora.
Inspired by the magic of the Aurora? Learn more about the best seasons to visit, the cultural importance of the Aurora, and available Northern Lights hunting tours. There is always another unforgettable experience to have under the best Northern Lights in the world.
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Activities
Member
Blachford Lodge
What began as a “part time fishing lodge” has now become a “full time Aurora Wilderness Lodge” open year round......
Member
Yellowknife Vacations
We are an experienced team in the tourism industry and we provide services in Mandarin, Cantonese, English and other Asian......
Member
Trail Blazer Tours
Book an adventure with us at Trail Blazer Tours for an unforgettable experience! Your adventure with us will create lasting......
Member
B. Dene Adventures Inc.
Your Dene Connection in Yellowknife. B. Dene Adventures is a Traditional Dene Culture Camp business which teaches the Dene way......
Member
Łı́ı́dlı̨́ı̨́ Kų́ę́ Tourism
We are the Łı́ı́dlı̨́ı̨́ Kų́ę́ got’ine. People of the community of Łı́ı́dlı̨́ı̨́ Kų́ę́, “the place where rivers come together”, in......
Member
Tundra North Travel
Tundra North Travel is an Inuit company based in Inuvik, Northwest Territories that was established with the dream of being......
Member
Red Cliff Adventures
Red Cliff Adventures has a traditional camp that is located in Lutsel K’e, on the shores of the East Arm,......
Member
North Nahanni Naturalist Lodge
Nestled in the Nahanni Range of the Mackenzie Mountains on Cli Lake, is the North Nahanni Naturalist Lodge. It is......
Member
Enodah Wilderness Travel/ Trout Rock Lodge/Enodah Kennel
Enodah Wilderness Travel / Trout Rock Lodge/ Enodah Kennel offer high-quality Aurora viewing experiences by night and dogsled tours by......
Member
Ji Guang Tour
With over 30 years of living in Yellowknife, we offer a variety of tourism experiences for our guests. We are......
Member
Nanook Aurora Tours
Offering four-hour Aurora tours including the ice road and City of Yellowknife. Pick-up and drop-off available. Small groups. Service in......
Member
Arctic Chalet Tours
Best Northern Road Trip! Now you can drive all the way to the Arctic ocean linking Canada from coast to......
Member
Namushka Lodge (1982) Ltd.
The all new Namushka Lodge! Come enjoy all the new amenities of a fly-in fishing lodge! Located on Harding Lake, 32......
Member
Destination NWT Ltd.
Destination NWT Limited is a tourism operator located in Yellowknife, Canada. DNWT specializes in outdoors adventures, aurora photography, and cultural experiences: Best rated Snowmobile Tour, winter gears included, exciting trail riding Aurora Tour in a Luxurious lakeside Lodge Unique Aurora tour while Ice Fishing indoors Full panoramic moonroof vehicle for Aurora Viewing DNWT’s tours allow […]...
Member
Explore Yellowknife Year - Round Adventure
Explore Yellowknife is an adventure tour operator based in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories.We offer authentic northern tours like no other. Witness......
Member
Aurora Dream Tours
Our professional tour guides will take you on amazing Aurora viewing tours, city tours, ice road tours and much more.......
Member
Yellowknife Outdoor Adventures
For a Great Northern Experience! Yellowknife Outdoor Adventures offers a variety of day trips ranging from 2 to 10 hours......
Member
North Star Adventures
100% Indigenous owned! We are the world’s first Aurora Hunting tour company, we know Aurora. Learn about Aurora, why Yellowknife is the......
Member
Beck's Kennels
World class dogsled tours! We are one of the largest professional sled dog kennels in Canada. Over 150 happy, healthy......
Member
Great Slave Lake Tours
Great Slave Lake Tours offers winter and summer trips on Great Slave Lake, the ninth biggest lake in the world......
Member
Yellowknife Tours
Come experience world-class Aurora Borealis viewing in Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada. We are the only guides in the Northwest Territories......
Member
Sonny Aurora Tours
Join us on an Aurora hunting adventure. Our skilled tour guides know all the best places around Yellowknife to capture......
Member
Arctic Duchess Adventures
Come explore more then half a century of marine history under the Aurora!...
Member
Diamonds de Canada
Canada has a deep love for our natural resources with diamonds being the highest expression of love. Thanks to Canada’s world class standard for sustainable mining, we are custodians of our precious lands and take great pride and care releasing these rare gems. From the moment our land is surveyed to the final reclamation (the […]...
Member
Dancing Skies Photo Tours
Dancing Skies is a new tour operator in Yellowknife, led by an experienced northern lights chaser and photographer with a passion for contemplation. Specializing in private tours and small groups of up to 5 people, we prioritize silent, serene observation and photography of the aurora, far from the crowds. With expertise in Space Weather data, […]...
Member
My Backyard Tours
We offer winter clothing rentals. Our winter clothing will keep you warm and comfortable for your outdoor fun – ask us......
Member
Arctic Tours Canada
Arctic Tours Canada is a Yellowknife based tour operating company that offer Aurora Hunting and Viewing tours, Yellowknife sightseeing tours,......
Member
Bucket List Tour Company
We operate a fully equipped luxury coach and offer City Tours, Aurora Tours and tours to the Nahanni National Park Reserve......
Member
North of 60 Aurora Adventures
We offer tours such as aurora viewing, dog sledding, snowmobile rides, ice fishing and more. Come experience a once in......
Member
K'iyeli Tourism Services
Extend your trip to Fort Simpson with a visit to our Dene Camp, K’iyeli. We have options available for an......
Member
NARWAL Northern Adventures
Northern and Remote Wilderness Adventures Ltd. (NARWAL) is a small, friendly, majority Aboriginal owned and operated family business. Our reputation......
Member
Old Town Glassworks
Etching popular northern designs on unique 100% recycled glass, since 1994. Visit our gift shop in Old Town or come......
Member
AuroraTours.net
We are a local Aboriginal tour company based in Yellowknife, the capital of the Northwest Territories, Canada. Our focus is on......
Member
Peterson's Point Lake Lodge
Peterson’s Point Lake Lodge provides you access to known waters teeming with monster lake trout. Their current record is a......
Member
Aurora Village
Aurora Village – A Class of Its Own Aurora Village is a unique Aurora-viewing facility situated 25 minutes from downtown......
Raven Tours is a tour operator in Yellowknife, NT, Canada. We offer Aurora Viewing, Snowshoeing, and Hiking Tours. We hope to......
Guided hunting, community tours of Tuktoyaktuk and much more. Visit a local home to enjoy a unique opportunity to appreciate......
If you are looking for an Aurora Experience of a lifetime in Yellowknife – the best place in the world to......
Our goal is to provide unique customized services for high-end customers. We excel at making personalized tours. You can see......
An Indigenous, family owned business with much history, knowledge and stories to share about the Spectacular Northwest Territories! We used......
Pehdzeh Ki First Nation is located in the community of Wrigley, Northwest Territories, Canada. We are a Designated Authority in......
For 35 years, Sambaa K’e has offered world-class fishing on Trout Lake just north of the Northwest Territories-British Columbia border.......
Yellowknife Online produces Yellowknife specific articles and content for visitors, residents, and newcomers. Yellowknife Online has recently transferred that knowledge......
To truly experience the Northwest Territories, take your camping gear for a highway driving adventure! Long ribbons of road without......
Member
Beaufort Sea Adventures
Beaufort Sea Adventures is a family-owned and Indigenous-operated business, proudly offering Arctic experiences in Tuktoyaktuk. Our family lives and breathes the North, giving us a unique insight into the hidden gems that make Tuktoyaktuk truly special. We offer guests an authentic cultural immersion, sharing our Inuvialuit heritage, stories, and deep connection to the land and […]...