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Home Story The Mackenzie River the NWT’s Gateway to the Arctic Ocean

The Mackenzie River - the NWT’s Gateway to the Arctic Ocean

The longest paddling trip you can take in Canada without ever having to carry your canoe, the 1,800-kilometre Mackenzie River is brimming with astounding landscapes, thrilling adventures, and rich history. Paddling the Mackenzie is a journey full of changing rhythms and beats, pushes and pulls.

The month-long voyage winds through the Northwest Territories, maneuvering past rugged peaks and boreal woodlands, crossing the Arctic Circle, descending through the Mackenzie Delta, and finishing at the Arctic Ocean. Novice and experienced paddlers alike will enjoy this sensational route. Ready to get the lowdown? Here are some insider details on how to experience this unforgettable journey on the “Big River” for yourself.

Go with a Gentle Flow

The Mackenzie River begins at the western end of Great Slave Lake, a sort of warm-up before the main event, with a quiet, slow-moving river amid a calm and peaceful environment. The slow pace and solitude experienced here free the mind of the daily bustle and provide endless opportunities for sightseeing, including vivid and vibrant sunrises.

Travel alongside the Mackenzie Bison Sanctuary, home to North America’s largest land animal, the majestic wood buffalo. Feel the pull of the river as you make your way through waves, waterfalls, and blissful currents. Then take a deep breath as you paddle beneath the iconic Deh Cho cable bridge, the only bridge spanning the Mackenzie River. This eye-catching structure serves as a reminder of humanity’s footprint and our ability to work in harmony with the environment.

The first of about twelve communities along the river, Fort Providence is a friendly Dene and Métis settlement on the north side of the river. If you are looking to stretch your legs, pop into The Snowshoe Inn and marvel at the handmade goods, like caribou antler jewelry and moose tufting wall hangings. Back on the river, watch for plentiful waterfowl as you cross Mills Lake, the widest part of the Mackenzie River, 20 kms at the widest point.

Continue the Adventure into Communities Alive with Tradition

After the river narrows, keep your eyes out for the small community of Jean Marie River, traditionally called Tthets’ek’ehdeli, meaning “water flowing over clay”. Here lies a community with fewer than 100 residents nestled in an idyllic setting.

A traditional lifestyle is still very much thriving, and activities like hunting, fishing and trapping are part of everyday life. This community is home to the TthedzehK’edeli Got’ie First Nation and is the perfect pit stop. Have a picnic, stretch your legs, and enjoy the breathtaking views of the flats

Not far downriver beyond the rocky shoreline, you’ll arrive at Fort Simpson, where the Liard and the Mackenzie Rivers meet. This place isn’t just entertaining, it’s practical too. It’s a perfect spot to stock up on food and travel essentials. But make sure to leave time to relax and enjoy the local sights, like the Indigenous craft artist shops and the riverfront heritage sites.

Next, hop back on the Mackenzie and swing north at Camsell Bend. Now is a good time to introduce yourself to the majestic mountains, as they’ll accompany you for most of the rest of your trip!

Pedzéh Kı̨́, as it is traditionally known, more commonly Wrigley, is the perfect example of a place where natural and man-made elements are perfectly intertwined. This small but vibrant community is easily accessible by road, sitting at the end of the Mackenzie Highway. But arriving by river provides a truly spectacular sight, looking at the small homes amidst the permanence of the Franklin Mountains.

After this, you’ll spend the next several weeks beyond the reach of roads. First stop, a mere 620 kilometers from Yellowknife, and 72 km from Norman Wells, a small community only accessible by air, paddling, or winter roads: Tulita.  This community sits at the junction of the Bear and Mackenzie Rivers, in the shadow of legendary Bear Rock, a sacred Dene site used for reflection and prayer. 

Be sure to squeeze in a few extra days for off-water fun, as there are stunning day hikes off the Mackenzie. The Bear Rock Trail offers stunning views of Tulita and your twisting water highway. Local guides will lead you to the most scenic lookouts. You’re not far from one of Canada’s newest parks, the Nááts’ihch’oh National Park Reserve, full of fast-flowing whitewater adventures

Paddle to “Where there is Oil”

Take your memories with you and follow the mountains to a very different world, the Mackenzie’s famous oil fields. Here, Alexander Mackenzie, for whom the river is named after, observed oil bubbling out of the banks of the river. Witness man-made mid-river islands and more pumpjacks than trees, busily pulling petroleum from deep beneath the streambed. Industrious Norman Wells, traditionally named Tłegǫ́htı̨, translates to “where there is oil.” 

This historic town of approximately 650 residents is another great place to take a break from the big river and learn about the NWT’s industrial history. Here you’ll find grocery stores, restaurants, museums, and even a golf course! Before heading back to the Mackenzie, play a quick round of golf at the Ptarmigan Ridge Golf Course.

Here in Norman Wells, you’ll also find the starting point of the Canol Trail, a historic and rugged route originally built during WWII to transport oil. Intrepid hikers can follow this remote trail through breathtaking landscapes, crossing alpine plateaus, river valleys, and remnants of the old pipeline. The Canol Trail offers a unique challenge for seasoned hikers and history buffs alike, with its mix of natural beauty and historical significance.

Traverse the Ever Changing Landscapes of the North

Back on the river, marvel at the sheer-sided Ramparts, a narrow canyon of limestone walls that chokes the Mackenzie River for twelve kilometres, narrowing from almost 2 kilometres wide to about 100 metres. The golden hues juxtaposed with the blue skies and changing water are a photographer’s paradise. 

Float your way to the banks, where Fort Good Hope sits. It is home to the Lady of Good Hope church, the oldest permanent structure in Northern Canada. As you continue along the Dehcho, be sure to look out for wildlife that use the river as a life source. Caribou, Muskox, moose, and bears roam these lands, so keep an eye out for these incredible creatures!

Each sunrise is a small reminder that you are a little further on your journey. There’s nothing like the morning sun reflecting off the paddle as it dips in and out of the water, following the changing landscape. As you near the Gwich’in community of Tsiigehtchic, you enter the winding web of the Mackenzie Delta, which empties into the Beaufort Sea.

Congratulations, you are now beyond the treeline…

The Secret Path to the Arctic Ocean

Inuvik, the capital of the Western Arctic and the largest town along the Mackenzie River, is a must-stop. Check out the local landmarks and food options, like Alestine’s, a local big yellow school bus diner! Tasty reindeer chili and burgers, as well as local White Fish tacos, are served up and made to order. Word has it it’s the only patio north of the Arctic Circle. The reviews are fantastic, so don’t miss this opportunity to fill up on more than just paddling supplies! 

Onward to Tuktoyaktuk, the “pingo” capital of the world. Pingos are ice mounds covered by vegetation and are truly the only “hills” in sight. This is the perfect opportunity to take a guided tour of the fascinating Pingo Canadian Landmark.

You’ve made it! Here you are, at the mouth of the Mackenzie, where it pours into the Arctic Ocean. Dip your toes in and reflect on your remarkable journey. You’ve paddled 1,800 kilometres, and no portages!

Not quite ready to paddle your way to the Arctic Ocean? Embark on the road trip of a lifetime and drive the Dempster Highway from Dawson City in the Yukon to Inuvik and then to Tuktoyaktuk, where the highway ends right at the edge of the Arctic Ocean.

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